Welcome to your source for FICM repair!
We can repair your dead FICM!
Can I send in my module while your office is closed for New Years Day?
Of course! We have a secure holding area that our carriers use during our off hours. While we doubt we'll receive any carrier shipments New Years Day, any modules received during this time will get first priority upon our return Friday.
How long does the repair take?
At FICMrepair.com, we understand how important your truck is to you. We work diligently to repair units the very day that they are received and get them out in the following day's mail. In extraordinarily high demand periods, it may take us two days to complete the repair. Can't afford to be down? We can do an exchange!
How does the Exchange Program work? What happens with my core?
If you can't afford to be down, we understand! For $50 more than you would have spent having us repair your module, we can ship you out a replacement - in most cases the same day you order it! This is not a loaner program - you trade your dead FICM in for a rebuilt and ready to go version. Essentially, for this non-refundable $50, you avoid the shipping times and associated delays of getting your presently dead or dying module to us.
Just tell us the service level you'd want performed (Basic, Premium, Ultra), tell us what software you want loaded on it (OEM Ford or the dramatically better aftermarket software from PHP), what shipping you'd like, and we're all set.
This is less than you'd be out with expediting the shipping of your dead module to us! Of course, under this program we also need to receive your rebuildable module back to our shop within 30 days.
While we don't charge a 'core charge' upfront, we have to charge $350 for any cases where we don't get your rebuildable module back to us within this timeframe. If you get us your rebuildable core back after 30 days but within 60, we'll still take it back, but will debit you $50. If more than 60 days have gone by, contact us and we'll work something out with you. Note that FICM's returned with broken connectors or that suffer from water damage, fire damage, are burnt up inside, etc are not eligible for full core credit and may not be eligible for any core credit at all. It's a good idea to tape a scrap of corrugated cardboard over the connectors to protect them in shipping. Connector damage, for example, devalues a core $100 - few want a module delivered to them with broken tabs, etc. Yikes!
To get started, call us at 515-897-4459!
Note: If you want your FICM or other ordered items shipped insured, please ask us to add it to your order. Insurance is available for $3 for every $100 requested. Even though we have yet to have even one parcel stay lost, and even though only one in a thousand even experience a delay, we cannot be responsible for later deliveries, lost shipments, or other eventualities. Insurance payments are paid out on the carrier's payout schedule.
So...be careful with your cores and get them sent back in for maximum credit!
If you are looking to have a tune-only service performed, this cannot be done on exchange as what we'd be sending you is a freshly rebuilt module and what you would be sending is, well, a not-new unit that we'd have to perform a rebuild on to make it a saleable product. Of course, if you wanted to have the benefit of having a freshly rebuilt module, give us a call and we can set you up!!
Is programming or re-programming required?
No. This is a plug and play service. When you get your FICM back or we send you an exchange unit, all you have to do is re-install it and go.
What can you tell me about this custom PHP Programming?
The custom PHP FICM programming takes all of the best things from all of the
various FORD OEM programming strategies, rolls them together, and then adds
in its own secret sauce to provide better drivability and the possibility of better fuel economy. On an 05 Excursion, we noted gains
of about 2.5mpg in mixed highway/driving and much decreased turbo spool-up
times with the 'Atlas 40' tune on top of the SCT 'street tune' that was already loaded. With the tune in place, when the light turns
green, you go and go almost immediately now. The truck drives more like a
gas truck than a diesel. Crazy spool-up times are a thing of the past!
Of course, everyone drives their truck differently. About 4 of 5 are noting
better fuel economy numbers (2-3mpg seems to be the norm) regardless of which tune they elect (fuel economy benefits are the same regardless of tune selected), but nearly everyone tips their hat to the
better drivability.
Given the same driving style, there won't be any real differences in fuel economy
between the various tunes - the power tunes (Atlas 40, Atlas 80, and
Hercules) just provide some extra ponies with the option of the better fuel economy and that decreased turbo lag that you get from the
Eco tune alone. Some have seen a VERY slight mileage gain from the Atlas 40 over the Eco tune.
Note that those experiencing the highest mileage gains are coming from the latest version of Ford's software. Those using earlier software strategies report mixed results. While most still report some gain, perhaps 1 in 10 indicate no mileage gain at all.
How much are these tunes?
Regardless of the tune you select, the price is $150 in addition to the cost of the base repair that you elect.
My FICM is fine, but I want a tune. Can I send my FICM in for just the tune?
Absolutely! The charge for this service is $150 plus $15 shipping back to you. Just fill out our Intake Form and go.
Should I be concerned with my head gaskets with these tunes?
The FICM tunes do not derive their power by advancing the timing like ECM-based tuners do. This advancing of the timing is what causes cylinder head pressures to increase.
The Atlas 40, Atlas 80, and Hercules tunes get their power by prolonging the burn. Basically, fuel is added to the fire already going as a result of the explosion in the cylinder. Testing performed by PHP confirmed that the tunes do not increase the pressure that the cylinders are under, but rather increase the amount of time that the cylinders are under pressure.
The result is increased exhaust gas temperatures with the Atlas 40, Atlas 80, and Hercules tunes. Exhaust gas temperatures do not differ from stock with the Eco tune.
A quick shout out goes to David Lott with Diesel Innovations for pointing out the common misconception that the 2003, 2004 (and some say even 2005) model years somehow have less clamping force on the cylinder heads due to the use of 18mm head bolts. Actually, motors produced prior to January 11, 2006 use 18mm locating dowel pins - the actual head bolt size and resultant clamping force is identical between these earlier motors and the ones following that came with 20mm locating dowel pins. The reason for the dowel pin size was in preparation for the creation of the new 6.4L motors.
What PHP tune is right for me?
| Eco tune | Useful for all vehicles, whether they tow or not and whether they have an ECM (Bully Dog, Edge Evolution, etc) tune or not, regardless of truck model year, regardless of exhaust system. This tune will make your truck drive with responsiveness similar to a gas truck while maintaining all the benefits of a diesel. |
| Atlas 40 | This is our most popular tune and comes with all the benefits of the Eco tune, but with more oomph available to you just generally, even with an ECM programmer. If you are not set up to monitor your exhaust gas temperatures and run stock exhaust, this could also be an option if you tow less than 8000#. Gains of up to 40 horse power to the rear wheels can be seen. If you tow over 8,000 pounds, though, this option is only recommended if you have a way to measure your exhaust gas temperatures or if you have upgraded exhaust as the power added results in higher exhaust gas temperatures. The higher EGT's are largely caused as a result of a decreased need to downshift to maintain speed up a grade, thereby loading up the engine without an increase in airflow. Note that there is up to an about 75% overlap in the power adding capability of this tune with an ECM programmer, meaning that the power benefit will run close to 'just' 10 additional horsepower. Will you still 'feel' the difference, though? You bet! |
| Atlas 80 | This tune comes with all the benefits of the Eco tune and is okay with or without an ECM programmer, but only if you are running upgraded (4" or better) exhaust and have a way to measure your exhaust gas temperatures to ensure that they stay under the all-important 1500 degrees Fahrenheit (at which point you run the risk of burning exhaust valves). Gains of up to 80 horse power to the rear wheels can be seen. Note that there is up to an about 75% overlap in the power adding capability of this tune with an ECM programmer, meaning that the power benefit will run close to 'just' 20 additional horsepower. |
| Hercules | This tunes comes with all the benefits of the Eco tune, but is only recommended if you plan on never towing above 8,000 pounds, regardless of model year and exhaust. If you DO tow heavy, have upgraded exhaust, and STILL want to go with this tune, just recognize a need to CLOSELY monitor your EGT's and manually downshift the vehicle as necessary to maintain the airflow required to keep the exhaust gas temperatures low enough to not do damage to the exhaust valves. Note that there is up to an about 75% overlap in the power adding capability of this tune with an ECM programmer, meaning that the power benefit will run close to 'just' 25-40 additional horsepower. |
The big thing to consider is that with whichever tune you elect, that's the one you have. In other words, there is no changing between tunes without going the option of picking up a dedicated programmer directly from PHP (available for $400). You can have the benefit of any of these tunes for $150 - just check the box for whichever tune you want on our Intake Form.
Ultimately, heavily consider sticking with the Eco or Atlas 40 tune to not take away from the flexibility of the truck for towing use. If, however, you aren't doing any towing and are looking for a more aggressive base power level, the Atlas 80 might be good.
If you are looking for all-out performance, have an after-market and therefore larger exhaust system along with a way to measure your EGT's, the Hercules tune might well be a fit.
I already have a tuner from SCT, Bully Dog, Spartan, etc. Is this FICM tune compatible?
Yes! These other tuners tune only the ECM, not the FICM. The ECM, among other things, provides instructions to the FICM. When the FICM is programmed with a PHP tune, your ECM tune is not impacted. Rather, having the FICM tuned in many ways removes the limitations that the ECM has to live within!
I am running non-stock injectors. Is this a concern?
Running larger than stock injectors is not a concern for the Eco tune or for the Atlas 40 tune, but some have noted that their truck 'lopes' and 'hunts' to find a good idle with the Atlas 80 or Hercules tunes. Some with larger injectors have also noted that the truck does not run smoothly until warm and/or dumps black smoke until warm with the Hercules tune.
I have to pass a smog test. Should I be concerned?
We have yet to hear anyone indicate to us that they failed a smog test due to one of our tunes and have sold countless tunes to people in places like California that have stringent smog testing requirements.
What if I don't see the benefits of the tune I elect?
We maintain records of the software loaded on each customer's module before we replace it with a PHP tune. If you don't like the result of the tune you've selected, just ship the module back to us and we'll change it back to your original tune and refund you your money. We've yet to have even one customer take us up on this offer, but will update this FAQ if that changes.
Is there any reason that I *need* to change out of my current software?
Possibly. There is one particular tune revision available from Ford for only a short time that killed FICM's and did so in short order. This software used an aggressive heat induction (think short circuit) out to all eight injectors at the same time to warm up the motor oil in each of the fuel injector heads when the key is turned to the 'on' position as part of the starting process.
The trouble is, much like your toaster, this pulls a tremendous amount of current - current that your module is just not rated to handle. The software is known as a 'FICM killer' for a reason! If you don't elect an aftermarket tune at the time of your order and we discover that you have one of these software revisions on your module, we'll reach out to you to discuss the benefits of moving to alternate software revisions.
The problematic FICM software is: ARZ2AL00 (2003-2004), ARZ2AL00 (04.5), and ARZ2AL01 (05 on up).
The 'latest' Ford software revisions (ARZ2AH10, ARZ2AL10, and ARZ2AL11) have a more 'mild' induction strategy, but these result in significant power losses. Most that have the 'latest' versions still love their 6.0's, but complain of horrible turbo lag (off the line performance), poor throttle response just generally, and poor fuel economy.
Is removal hard?
It is really easy to remove the FICM. Just disconnect your batteries to begin. The FICM is located on the driver's side typically under and to the passenger side of the coolant overflow reservoir. There are two workable methods to remove it.
Without draining coolant method (provides less room to work, but is faster):
1. After letting the engine cool, remove and reinstall the reservoir cap to eliminate any built up coolant pressure.
2. Remove the two bolts holding the reservoir in place.
3. Using a plier, remove the hose clamp on the upper portion of the reservoir that is on the passenger side of the reservoir near the top. Set the hose aside, pointing it upwards to avoid coolant loss. Pull reservoir as far to the driver's side as possible to provide FICM screw access.
With draining coolant (dramatically more room to work):
1. Drain perhaps a gallon or so out from beneath the radiator (the petcock valve is located on the driver's side)
2. Remove the two bolts holding the reservoir in place
3. Use a plier to remove the clamps from the hoses connecting the reservoir to the various hoses (on the underside and the upper passenger side). Set reservoir aside.
Common Next Steps
Regardless of which method you used above, you will now notice that there are four bolts holding the FICM. Remove these and then lift up on the FICM and note the three wiring harness plugs. First, push the plugs FURTHER IN to relieve any pressure against the clips. Then, squeeze each plug one at a time one at the base on the long edges and then pull these plugs straight down or wiggle them to and fro to get them out. That's it. The two bolts on the front are nearly always 10mm. The two in the back are difficult to see, but are 8mm.
If you experience diffculty getting the plugs to come out, some have reported luck using a pair of channel locks to GENTLY squeeze on the base of the locking connector and then wiggling the plug side to side in order to get it out.
Can I test my FICM to ensure that it is the culprit?
If you aren't actually getting any codes, but would like to see if your FICM is the problem, you can easily test it. In fact, we encourage that all of our customers test their FICM's if it all possible just to be sure that it is indeed the cause of the issue they are experiencing!
If you have a ScanGauge II or Edge Insight CTS (of course available pre-programmed from us!), you can directly determine the voltage of your module through it. Other monitoring tools also allow this functionality, so it may make sense to look. If you have a ScanGauge that you didn't get from us and are curious on how to program it to grab FICM data, see the near end of this page.
If you don't have a monitoring tool, consider getting one as they are incredibly powerful little money savers that can alert you to issues before they leave you stranded, but for now read on...
(Note that to get the clearance necessary for testing, you will likely have to drain some coolant and remove the reservoir, as described above)
On the top of the FICM there is a small rectangular plate held on with two T20 torx screws. Remove these and you'll see four or seven screws, depending on your model.
For Four Screw Models - place your volt meter's positive lead on the screw closest to the driver's side of the vehicle - BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL NOT TO LET THIS LEAD SHORT OUT TO THE CASE. Place the meter's negative side lead on the negative terminal on one of the batteries. To prevent the lead from touching the case, many wrap all but the lead tips in electrical tape.
For Seven Screw Models - place your volt meter's positive lead on the screw closest to the PASSENGER side of the vehicle in the row with four screws - BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL NOT TO LET THIS LEAD SHORT OUT TO THE CASE. Place the meter's negative side lead on the negative terminal on one of the batteries. To prevent the lead from touching the case, many wrap all but the lead tips in electrical tape.
You are looking for anything above 45 volts (48 is ideal) with the key in the on position and for this voltage to not drop during cranking and running.
If your voltage is lower than 45 (the owner's Excursion was setting at less than 30 volts as an example), repair is needed. If you show zero volts out of the FICM, check your FICM fuse - it is a 50amp maxifuse typically located in the panel behind the driver's left knee in (typically) position 103.
If your voltage DOESN'T drop below 45 and you want a more difficult stress test on your module, look for less than 45 volts in the morning when the engine is completely cold. You are looking to test the voltage during the following events:
1.
Key off (0 volts)
2. Key on during buzz test (48 volts)
3. Key on after
buzz test (48 volts)
4. Cranking (48 volts)
5. Running IMMEDIATELY after
cold start and for the first minute (48 volts)
6. RPM's at 2000 after it's
been started for a minute (48 volts)
Again, if the voltage drops below 45, even for a second, during any of these tests, the FICM needs repair.
Of course, it's materially easier to review these voltages with a monitor like the ScanGauge II or, even better, the Edge Insight CTS. We have both of these tools available on our Intake Form.
What if my FICM isn't repairable?
In some very, VERY rare cases, units are not able to be repaired (generally as a result of having boards badly burnt following the catestrophic failure of one or more electronic components). If this is the case, we can set you up with a board to replace the one that is damaged beyond repair or even set you up with a completely different module if both boards are beyond help. Note that an additional charge will have to be assessed in these rare cases as the repair does not include the cost of replacement boards.
Feel free to send an email to info@ficmrepair.com with any questions or concerns. THANK YOU!
My FICM has been worked on before. Will you still repair it?
We will indeed work on previously worked on modules, but require a $50 additional fee in these cases given the additional time it consumes to correct the issues that this prior work caused.
What about reinstallation?
Reinstallation is the reverse of removal. One key point is to absolutely ENSURE that all three plugs 'click' back into place on both sides of each plug to ensure a good connection. The plug closest to the firewall is biggest bear of the three, but it's IMPERATIVE that it, too, clicks in. Some have had success using heavy duty zip ties like those used in the HVAC industry to help ratchet the plugs in as a way of getting them to click back on once again.
I've heard that heat and vibration are the real FICM killers. True?
We used to believe that heat and vibration took the top spots, but have since come to the realization that low supply side voltage should take the top spot.
Yes, it doesn't take a genious to determine the inherent design issues with placing these modules on the top of an engine that gets pretty warm and vibrates continuously. What's not so clear, however, is that each morning you start your truck it is essentially running only on batteries until your glow plug circuit has completed since the alternator is not able to keep up with the 230 amp load associated with the glow plugs and the base motor draw. See items 13 and 14 on our Maintenance Tips page for more information.
Of course, this wreaks havoc on a module already asked to take the nominal 12 volts of supply voltage and convert it to the 45-50 volts expected.
On that front, recognize the need to maintain fully charged batteries - batteries with a float voltage of 12.6 or higher that don't dip terribly for the first few minutes of engine run time. While it's common to have people report that their batteries' voltage dips down to 11.4 or so during this time, it's these same people that have their FICM's fail and are left to wonder why.
An excellent primer on batteries can be found at Battery Stuff.com.
For the vibration, ensure that the grommets holding the mounting brackets to the FICM are still soft and pliable. If they aren't, get replacements. It might be a good idea to get different ones just regardless.
Is there anything I can do while my FICM is being repaired?
Yes. Please use this opportunity to electrically disconnect the batteries from each other by disconnecting the negative battery cable from one of them and get each fully charged using a charger that will desulfate your batteries. We recommend the Battery Tender and BatteryMINDER line of products, though any 'smart' charger should fit the bill. When the charge process is complete, you should see 12.7 or more volts at each battery. If you see less (anything less than, say, 12.5), recognize that your batteries have not been or are not able to any longer accept a full charge. If this is the case, please replace them before installing your replacement module to maintain your warranty coverage.
The average 6.0 user gets only about two years of life out of their batteries. Chances are good that yours are under warranty.
If you want to increase the life of your batteries moving ahead, consider picking up a 3 watt or so solar charger that you can leave on the dashboard to provide for a charging opportunity each time the sun shines.
Also, go ahead and check your FICM's wiring harness for any chafffing as this rubbing has been known to cause electrical shorts to ground. You'll obviously want to correct any issues noted before re-installing your freshly repaired module. Page six of the guide at Dealerconnection.com lists some of the more common chaffing locations.
What about after the repair? Anything to do?
All you have to do is reinstall your module and you are set! Just PLEASE ensure that all three connectors actively click into place on both sides of the connector. The back one nearest the firewall, especially, tends to give people the most trouble.
Once the truck starts again, use the opportunity to verify that the batteries are maintaining at least 11.8 volts right after startup and that the alternator is putting out 13.6 or more volts to the batteries (after the glow plug cycle is complete) to avoid having a repeat issue.
What if something goes wrong?
We understand the importance of your truck to you and your family and also understand that sometimes, although we work really hard to avoid it, electronics failures can and do occur. Though we agonize over these very, very few circumstances, we stand behind our work and will correct the failure either by repair or replacement as necessary.
The warranty covers your part from failure and damage caused by our work. Damage caused by an electrical short external to the module, flood, collision, and running with inadequate supply side voltage due to a lack of battery and/or alternator maintenance do not fall under the warranty. If a question remains over the cause of the damage following our inspection, we will accept responsbility and warranty the module. In most cases, we are able to determine the cause of the failure for you. Should something with your truck be the cause, we will consult with you on how to prevent it from occurring in the future. Note that if something should happen with your FICM, call us first. Like all automotive part warranties, we do not accept responsbility for anything other than the part itself (towing, shop charges, downtime, other vehicle components, etc).
Warranted modules will be returned to you USPS Priority Mail at our expense. Of course, Express Mail return shipping is also available, but at our current shipping rates.
Ultimately, we are in business to help people stay on the road, not to leave them holding the bag.
Most FICM's fail with cold start issues, but my 6.0 has warm start issues. Could it still be the issue?
There could be a logic board issue with the FICM, but more common with warm start trouble is an issue with the high pressure oil pump or the plumbing that connects to it. The pumps typically fail around 140,000 to 180,000 miles in the 03's and early 04's and sadly are a bear to replace. What happens in these earlier models is that a leak occurs in the system (from a popped out check ball or other failure) and then the pump loses the volume in the system necessary to fire the injectors. New versions of these oil pumps substitute a plug in lieu of a check ball.
The other pieces and parts that fail are the snap to connect (STC) fitting from the pump to the plumbing, the standpipes (accessible under the valve covers), or the dummy plugs on the oil rail (also under the valve covers). If you have a late 2004 or newer truck, this is nearly certainly where you'll want to check.
Most with high pressure oil system issues have symptoms including rough idle, hard to start warm (10-12 seconds is common), lack of typical acceleration, bucking and jerking at lower RPMs when driving down the road (when the pump is spinning more slowly), and a complete elimination of issues when the accelerator is pressed down enough to cause a downshift (since the oil pump now spins faster thus building up more oil volume).
Also common with HPOP failures is for misfires to jump from one cylinder to the next.
Key to the diagnosis is also that HPOP issues have a tendency to come and go with changes in engine RPM, versus FICM issues which are consistent at given operating temperatures. A collection of videos on the diagnosis using an air test can be found on YouTube. Part 2 is here with the wrapup here. An air test showing the leak at the fitting is here. Bill Hewitt's explanation goes into the standpipes and dummy plugs here.
Of course, if you have a way to measure your IPR duty cycles and see 85% or so during cranking, this is a sure fire way to know that you've got a leak. If you don't see 500psi or more build-up of Injection Control Pressure (ICP) during cranking, then the ECM won't give the green light to allow a start either. The IPR should be close to 24 at hot idle and and 27 or so at cold idle.
If you don't have guages to measure ICP, you can use a digital volt meter to convert the voltage to PSI, as follows:
Press Sensor
(PSI) (MPA) Voltage
0 0 .02v
200 1.5 .4v
400 3 0.73v
600 4 .96v
800 5.5 1.2v
1000 7 1.4v
1200 8 1.6v
1400 9.7 1.9v
1600 11 2.1v
1800 12.4 2.3v
2000 13.8 2.6v
2200 15.2 2.8v
2400 16.5 3v
2600 18 3.3v
2800 19.3 3.5v
3000 20.6 3.8v
Most see 1.3V-1.5V during cranking (900-1100psi).
My FICM tested out with solid voltage, but I have a glow plug code. Is the FICM the issue?
If you have a glow plug code, you have a glow plug or glow plug harness issue and are not likely to have a FICM issue. Most find that replacing a glow plug necessitates changing out the glow plug wiring harness as well. A great write up is on FTE.
I broke one of the connectors when removing the FICM. What can I do?
If all that broke is one or both of the clips that ensure that the plug doesn't work itself loose, many have had good luck using heavy duty zip ties around the module to keep the plugs fully seated. Others have had luck taking a maybe 10" section of radiator hose, sliting it length wise and installing it under the module as a way to press the plugs continually back in. If your damage is more severe or you just want the 'right' solution, there are two options. The first is a replacement harness, but be prepared for some sticker shock. The injector harness (the plugs nearest the front bumper) retails in the $200 range and the ECM harness (the biggest plug of the bunch) is closer to $800. Alternatively, you can try replacing the plug ends. A great write up can be found here. We can send you replacement plug ends, plug ends with pigtail wiring already attached to make life easier, harnesses, whatever you need!
My truck will turn over but not start and I am seeing 0 volts after the FICM test. What can I do?
There is a 50 amp fuse under the steering wheel. It's worth removing it and reinstalling it to make a fresh connection. If this fuse is blown, replace it. If it blows again, it's time to get your FICM serviced!
My truck will turn over but not start and I have no logic power to the FICM. What can I do?
It's worth checking the 10 amp fuse in the black box under the hood near the drivers side hood hinge. Again, a removal and re-insertion can't hurt if its fine.
It could also be a FICM relay issue - most report it as being stamped with the 'engineering' part number F80B-14B192-AA - next to this 10 amp fuse near the drivers side hood hinge. It can never hurt to pull it out and reinstall it to verify that that doesn't solve your issue, but there is also huge logic in just replacing it rather than take a chance on a bad relay killing your FICM as they get weak over time. It's just good maintenance for any truck. We carry them for $40.
I had you work on my FICM or ordered an exchange and my truck is doing the same thing as it did before!
We test all FICM's before working on them. If a FICM is not damaged, it only gets worked on if you expressly want it upgraded. We have seen plenty of cases where a module had an issue, but the issue it had wasn't causing the symptoms that a truck was experiencing (meaning that the truck actually had more than one issue!). If we repaired your module, we cannot be responsible if your non-FICM related symptoms continue.
If you have any question whatsoever as to whether your FICM is the root of your issues, please contact us prior to sending in your module. We would be happy to troubleshoot with you!
Of course, if we did an exchange with you, we never saw your old module ahead of time. If you wanted to return the exchanged module, see the returns question below.
I ordered parts (FICM's, alternators, dummy plugs, oil coolers, whatever) from you that it turns out I don't need. How do returns work?
Just drop us an email to returns@ficmrepair.com to get an Return Material Authorization (RMA) number and then ship the parts back to us. Note that the shipping and handling charges cannot be refunded and that there is a 20% restocking fee of the part price(s) on returns of all parts other than FICM's. Non-FICM electronic parts (electronic monitors, programmers, starters, alternators, glow plug control modules, etc) are returnable only if never installed and, in some cases, only if unopened. If evidence of installation is found, no credit will be given.
All returns must be within 30 days of the date on the sales receipt.
Some special order items are not eligible for return at all. Note that items need to be complete, unopened, and in the precise condition they were received in to be eligible for return credit - no one wants to receive a part from us that has been opened or that has dirt and grime all over it!
If a returned item is found to be NOT eligible for return credit upon receipt, it can be shipped back to you, but at your expense. Some parts may be eligible for partial credit, but this is on a case by case basis and at our sole discretion.
FICM's, as an electronic part, are subject to the greater of 20% restocking fee or $75. As with other returns, they need to be returned in the same condition that they were sent in and some may be eligible for partial credit (if they come in dirty, with broken connectors, etc), but again is on a case by case basis and at our sole discretion.
Is there anything else I can do to make my injectors work more effectively and make my truck run better?
Yes! We offer the at Hot Shot Secret line of products to clean the coking that occurs over time around the injectors. Add this product to your crankcase at the next oil change in lieu of two quarts of oil and see the benefits! This product dramatically reduces injector stiction and prolongs the life of your injectors.
We also offer the Fire Power product (previously known as FP Diesel Extreme) to clean the fuel side of the injectors.
Ask us about including a bottle of each with your repaired FICM.
You mentioned programming the ScanGauge II. How can I do that (as sadly I didn't get the gauge from you and so am now stuck programming it!)?
Check out a great how-to video from one of our customers here!
Part of the draw of the ScanGauge II product is the ability to monitor items not native to the device - a feature not available on the Edge Insight CTS product. While it sure would be nice for a singular device to be able to support both audible alerts when thresholds are hit, monitor EGT's, AND be able to add in your own items of interest, for now, you may want to think about picking up BOTH the Insight CTS and the ScanGauge II.
For FICM voltage monitoring, program these 'X Gauges', by turning it on, clicking 'MORE' three times, and clicking the Version X-Gauge button:
FICM
Vehicle Power - output is in volts. You are looking for numbers above 12.*
TXD:
07E02209CE
RXF: 0462450906CE
RXD: 3010
MTH: 006401000000
NAM: FVP
FICM
Logic Power (Volts) (Should be 12 volts and be within 0.1 volts of your battery voltage readings)
TXD: 07E02209CF
RXF: 0462450906CF
RXD:
3010
MTH: 006401000000
NAM: FLP
FICM Main Power (Volts) (Should be
47-49.5, but never less than 45)
TXD: 07E02209D0
RXF: 0462450906D0
RXD:
3010
MTH: 006401000000
NAM: FMP
* Ford's Technical Service Bulletin 09-24-03 says that this number should never drop below 10.25 volts for more than 60 seconds or below 9.0 volts for more than four seconds, but recognize that anything even remotely close to these numbers is putting wear on your FICM. If voltages drop into the 9's when cranking, it's time for a new pair of batteries.
On a 2005 Excursion fitted with the 6.0, a new set of 850CCA Energizer-branded batteries from Sam's Club at a 35° ambient temperature tested out at 12.78 volts at float (after they had been sitting all night), dropped to 12.0 volts during cranking, registered 12.2 volts during the first couple minutes of running while the glow plug circuit was still running (yes, your truck operates on battery alone for up to two minutes EVERY cold start when it's cold outside, which is why short trips are murder on 6.0's batteries), comes up to 14.1 volts while the alternator is working to recharge everything, and ultimately dropped to 13.6 volts after the charging cycle was all but complete. Subsequent migration away from the stock alternator and into a 270XP DC Power alternator has resulted in voltages that never dip below 13.9.
The ScanGauge can have up to 24 X-Gauges programmed. Many enter the ones that they want alphabetically from #24 to #0 so it scrolls through logically. Here's a comprehensive (and alphabetized!) list of X-Gauges commonly of interest:
Throttle Position Actual (Degrees)
It seems as if turbo issues are relatively common on these trucks. Where can I learn more?
Check out a great discussion on FTE with links to the turbo re-learn procedure (post #4) and tons of other useful information.
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